ARCHAEOLOGICAL
WALKS
THE
EXCAVATIONS OF ISOLA COMACINA
Isola Comacina is the only island of lake Como. Starting
at least from the late Roman Empire the island has been
a fortified stronghold. Later it became a military place
for the Goths first and for the Byzantines afterwards
who surrendered to the Longbards in 588. During the
ten years' war (1118 - 1127) Isola Comacina was allied
with Milan against Como and because of that, in 1169
the people of Como attacked and destroyed the settlement
setting the island on fire. Since then the island has
been uninhabited, but the event is still remembered
every year with a religious and folkloristic ceremony
that take place at mid summer day (St. John, the last
Saturday of June). In 1914, some excavations were started
on the island. They brought to light the ruins of the
ancient fortress, once connected to the complicate watch
tower system which covered all the lake, together with
a number of sacred buildings. Of these relics set in
the eastern zone of the island the most important ones
are the excavations of the church of Santa Eufemia,
the Baptistery and the Church of San Giovanni. The excavations
of Santa Eufemia are believed to belong to the paleo
Christian period (the very beginning of Christianity).
The church was attested in the 7th century and became
a Canonical College in 1031. The relics of the church
reveal an imposing structure composed of three apses
and three aisles, scanned by octagonal pillars. The
Presbytery is joined to the choir by a middle bay, which
is heightened up above the crypt by eight pillars and
a cross vault. Next to the facade is the bell tower
decorated with semi-columns. The only still existing
capital of the crypt is decorated with acanthus leaves
and can be seen on the terrace of the local restaurant.
Inside the baroque church of San Giovanni are visible
some relics of the most ancient structure of the archaic
paleo-Christian church. Behind San Giovanni church there
are the ruins of the Baptistery that reveal a be-apses
structure with a three coloured mosaic floor decorated
with floral and geometrical figures of the 5th century
a. C. At its West Side there are the remains of the
paleo-Christian church of Santa Maria in Portico. Further
westward there are the ruins of the church of San Pietro
in Castello, probably of Roman era. At the west most
point of the island, embodied into a farmhouse, there
are some remains of the monastic church of San Faustian
and Giovita.
How to reach Isola Comacina: By car or bus to Sala Comacina
and private boat service to the island.
LENNO
The Parish Church of Santo Stefano was built on the
ruins of Roman hot-bath. In 1933, in the area nearby
the church, it was found a grave of the Roman Empire
period. Other ruins of the Roman era were found nearby
the mouth of Perlana stream, near the point of Lavedo
heights, where there was one of the many Villas Pliny
the Young had on lake Como called la Comoedia (comedy).
Of this villa, in 1847, were rescued two pillar fragments
with Corinthians capitals that are now preserved at
the Archaeological Museum of Como. In 1908 - 1909, along
the road that leads to the shrine of Madonna del Soccorso,
some ancient graves were discovered. In one of them
it was found a coin of the Roman Emperor Giustiniano,
which enabled the experts to date the graves to the
6th century. The ancient nucleus of Lenno is situated
at the Northwest side of the height of Lavedo. Right
in its center stands the Parishchurch dedicate to Santo
Stefano, and in a detached position there is the Baptistery
of Saint John. Both of them belonged to a larger sacred
complex surrounded by walls which once also included
the chapels of San Zeno and Santa Maria, next to the
presbytery, and a cemetery yard. Among the most ancient
remains kept in the Parish church there are three pagan
tombstones and twelve Christian ones. They are now embodied
into the atrium walls (three), into the left external
wall (one) and in the crypt walls (underneath the church).
Engraved into the stone, they bear the dates 535 (or
539) and 571, together with some other Christian symbols.
The access to the crypt is through a trapdoor in the
floor of the parish church, which is usually kept closed
although it is possible the access previous permission
by the Priest. The crypt is of trapezoidal shape with
five bays and three cross- vaulted apses. The lateral
semi - capitals date to the 5th and 7th century, while
the capitals of the central pillars could be ascribed
either to the late paleo-Christian or to the early medieval
era with archaizing early Romanesque style. The structure
of the Parish church is paleo-Christian with porches,
which probably during the 16th century were closed to
form the lateral aisles. The remains of a fresco depicting
female Saints testify the medieval admittance to the
church. The stone water-basin at the main entrance and
some fragments of a fresco (now part of the first chapel
at the right hand side). are of the 15th century. During
the 17th century, the church was renewed in Baroquette
style. Outside the church, at its left hand side there
is the Baptistery of San Giovanni, a building of octagonal
plan with apse facing North. The external walls are
framed with arches divided in groups of three supported
by semi-columns. The roof, topped with a small square
bell tower, is covered with stone tiles. The front doorway
has three arches (two of them blinded) supported by
semi columns topped with reutilized capitals which are
therefore difficult to date. Inside the Baptistery there
are some fragments of a medieval fresco and some Baroque
decorations all in great decay. The building itself
dates to the second half of the 11th century. During
summer, the Baptistery hosts some art exhibitions. If
closed, please ask the Priest.
How to reach Lenno: By car, bus or boat.
OSSUCCIO
Its name comes from the roman Pago degli Ausuciati (village
of the Ausuciati). In early Middle Ages it was under
the rule of the powerful military and religious center
of Isola Comacina. For that reason it was involved in
the ferocious fight between the Longbards allied with
the Milanese and the Como people, until these last ones
completely destroyed Isola Comacina in 1169. Some roman
relics were found within the area of the parish church
of Sant'Agata and Sisino. The church is of Romanesque
style with a bell tower of the 11th century. It is situated
in a lower position in respect to the nowadays road.
Inside it is possible to see a roman altar of the 2nd
- 3rd century, dedicated to the Matrone (noble ladies)
and to the protecting Genius of the village. Toward
the left wall there is a precious stone water-basin
with zoomorphic relieves brimmed with geometrical motives,
which date to the 12th century. On the left wall there
are some fragments of a fresco representing a Crucifixion,
probably of the 12th century. Under it there are some
other fragments of a fresco dating 1489. In 1907, during
some diggings nearby the church were discovered two
incineration Celtic graves inside which were rescued
some bronze and iron vases and fibulae.
OSPEDALETTO
DI OSSUCCIO
Ospedaletto is a cluster of Ossuccio. It owes its name
to the Hospitium (hospital) joined to the church of
Santa Maria Maddalena documented since 1169, but datable
between the 11th and 12th century. The church is composed
of one only hall proceeded by a heavily restored porch.
Embodied into the right wall of the porch there is a
zoomorphic frieze, a remarkable example of Romanesque
sculpture. Interesting and singular is the bell tower
ending with a later added Gothic cell datable between
the 14th and 15th century. Inside the church are still
visible some traces of a fresco depicting a Panteocrator
Christ while the frescoes on the right wall are of the
early 1600 and the scagliola (stucco) altar front is
of the 18th century.
How to reach Ossuccio By caror by bus
THE
ANCIENT VIA REGINA
In the year 16 b. C., the Alpine people raised against
the roman conquerors, involving in their rebellion the
Reti and the Vindelici, who inhabited Grisonland, the
Tyrol and the lands as far as the Danube river. For
that reason, the Roman Emperor Augusts charged his two
adopted sons, Druso and Tiberio, to quench the revolt,
which they did in a year's time. This historical event
is at the origin of the whole road system in the northern
part of Lombardy, including our via Regina. For sure,
to reach the lands beyond the Alps in order to quench
the revolt, the Roman army utilized the already existing
narrow paths, which ran on the western side of lake
Como. Although narrow, the trails proved to be of great
strategic and tactical importance, so the Romans decided
to turn them into proper roads, also because they were
planning to invade the whole Germany within a few years.
The archaic paths were traced by Claudio Marcello in
196 b. C. and were finished under Julius Caesar at the
time he founded the town of New Como. The first road
ran higher than the later one, although it had never
been completely neglected and in the Middle Ages, people
found it safer to use the ancient path because of the
many hordes of soldiers of venture coming down from
the Alps. The road traced after the 16 -15 b. C. war
ran as near the coast as possible, but the Roman had
to face some geological difficulties because of the
many rocky heights along shore. So, when it was impossible
to avoid those difficult points, they made the road
climb up the steep slopes to overpass them. It is still
possible to walk one of these steep segments of the
roman Via Regia that overpasses Sasso Rancio, 337 meters
high. The walk is 7 kms. long starting from Nobiallo,
a medieval village next to Menaggio, right from the
Shrine of Madonna della Pace. Here the path starts rising
to reach the very top of Sasso Rancio from where one
can enjoy a beautiful sight of the lake. Then the path
starts to lower down towards Acquaseria and at Sant'Abbondio
where it joins the modern road. After a short interruption
(about 200 meters), it is possible to pick up again
the ancient path that runs along the coast as far as
Villa Locatelli from where it starts mounting up hill
running half way until it reaches the bridge over the
Acquaseria stream. At Molvedo the path joins once more
the modern road (that runs over the ancient one) for
about 100 meters, then it continues as far as the Church
of Santa Maria Rezzonico. We suggest visiting this church
either for its paintings or for its Baroque decorations.
Next to the church there are the ruins of an ancient
fortress of the 5th - 6th century, situated on the south
side of the ancient way, which from here runs parallel
to the modern one until it reaches a bridge flying over
Val Gigina. Then the path starts to mount up towards
the so called Castellaccio (bad looking castle), which
consists in the ruins of a watchtower set above the
sothern entrance of a tunnel. From here the path goes
steep down to Rezzonico where it ends.
How to reach Nobiallo from Tremezzina: By bus or by
car.
How to come back from Rezzonico: By bus or by car.
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