The
ashore central zone of Lake Como, which goes from Colonno
to Cadenabbia di Griante, is known as ‘Tremezzina’ after
the name of the village of Tremezzo, which is situated
right in the middle of the western coast of the lake.
It is very likely that the origin of its name is due
to its geographical position ‘Tra-mezzo’ (in the middle)
of the road which runs from Como to the end of the lake.
THE
DAWN
Lake Como originated at the end of the glacial era about
11 thousand years ago. During the many glacial periods,
the continuous advancing and withdrawing of the glacier
dug the lake bed, which was then filled with the water
from the melting of the ice to form Lake Lario, better
known as Lake Como. Its peculiar Y shape
is due to the mountains of the Lariano Triangle
that opposed and deviated the glacier way. The lake
reaches its deepest (475 mt.) and widest most point
just before the peninsula of Bellagio that splits it
into two branches. Its main tributary and effluent is
river Adda, although it receives the water of the many
streams that runs down from the surrounding Prealps.
In ancient times, the lake was wider as it reached the
banks of Val Chiavenna. The many Alpine and Prealpine
passes that links the territory to the lands beyond
the Alps, the abundance of drinkable water, the mildness
of the climate, the navigability of the lake which
for centuries on end was the main, if not the only,
way of connection from north to south- the easiness
to get food, either by fishing or hunting, and the plentiness
of timber, due to the forest that covered the nearby
mountains, were the characteristics that favoured the
settlement of the very first nucleus of permanent houses.
For sure, the area was inhabited since prehistorical
times, probably by some tribes from beyond the Alps
such as the Reti, who settled in the northern area of
the lake, and the Celts that, with their different tribes,
occupied a wide area in northern Italy. As far as we
know, these people did not possess any kind of writing;
consequently there are no documents that describe the
local historical events of that time. Nevertheless,
the finding of some tombs with items of daily life,
datable to the bronze and iron era, certify their presence
on the area.
THE
ROMAN COLONIZATION
The many and comparatively easy Alpine Passes in the
upper Lake Lario stirred the attention of Rome, always
in search of quick and easy ways to reach the Central
European Lands both for conquering them and for controlling
the colonies already under their power. Maybe that was
one of the reasons why Rome decided to conquer Como
and its territory. The path that from Como allowed to
rapidly reaching the Alps proved to be of vital importance
for the Romans. So, after having founded the New Town
of Como by the lake, the Romans built a wider and more
linear road alongshore, which responded to the characteristics
they needed for a quick move of their troops beyond
the Alps. They partially utilized the ancient path and
called the new road Via Regia. It was also necessary
that the road was safe enough for them to percour so,
for a better patrolling of the territory, Julius Caesar
ordered the colonization of the lands along the lake.
Many wealthy families from the Great Greece (Magna Grecia)
were sent over here to found new villages or simply
to settle in those already existing. Following their
habits, the Romans started to build villas, hot baths
and temples and, as the climate proved to be mild enough,
they introduced the cultivation of olive trees and vines.
In past years, a good number of items and coins of the
Roman era were discovered and taken to the Archaeological
Museum of Como. Among them there were two pieces of
columns with Corinthian capitals, rescued from the lake
at Lenno in 1847, which belonged to one of the villas
Pliny the Young had on Lake Como. Some of the alongshore
villages of Tremezzina owe their name to their Greek-Roman
origin, as for example Colonno, Lenno and Tremezzo,
while some others have kept in their name their more
ancient etymological root.
THE
BARBARIAN INVASIONS
The comparatively easiness to overpass the Alps, together
with the declining of the Roman supremacy attracted
to Italy people from the lands beyond the Alps, who
were still grouped in tribes and whom, maybe because
of their uncultivated beards, were given the general
name of Barbarians. Led by uncultured, fierce and bloody
chiefs and taking advantage of the weakness of the decaying
Roman Empire, they swarmed down from the Alps looking
for easy richness. With them, it started a long period
of bloody wars, robberies, destructions and plagues
that afflicted the natives for centuries on end. The
first to invade the area were the Goths. They took possession
of all strategical positions to patrol both the lake
and the roads that lead to the southward plains (to
Como and Milan), the eastward mountain passes (to Bergamo
and Austria) and the westward ones (to Saint Jorio Pass,
Bellinzona and Germany). For better patrolling the lake,
they occupied Isola Comacina where they rebuilt the
fortress they had previously destroyed and later strenuously
defended when the Byzantines, in their attempt of conquering
back the lands of the late Roman Empire, assaulted it.
The Byzantines power over the area was short as
it only lasted until the Lombards came down from the
Alps. The new invaders conquered a vast area in Northern
Italy, where they definitely settled down giving their
name to the Region. The Lombards were a German people,
who derived their name from the long bards, or lances,
with which their soldiers were equipped. Differently
from the previous invaders, they gained the esteem and
love of the natives, who under their rule knew a relatively
peaceful and prosperous period. No doubt, their conversion
to Christianity - that was wide-spread in the area since
the paleo-Christian era - was the main reason for them
to be accepted. The author of this conversion was the
beloved Queen Theodolinda. Many local legends are bound
to this queen; one of them tells that Via Regina (the
Roman Via Regia), either the one that come from the
State Border at Oria, along Lake Ceresio, or the one
that runs along Lake Como, were traced to enable her
to pass through these lands on her way to Monza and
Pavia. Peoples love for this mythical queen survived
through the centuries, and even nowadays nearly every
Lombard village claims her presence, or at least her
passage, on its territory.
THE
MIDDLE AGES
The early and widespread Christianisation of the Lario
area made it compulsory the building of places for the
new religion. As it happens for any cultural superposition,
at first there was a partial or total destruction of
the pagan temples immediately followed by the reconstruction
of buildings for the new cult, which were usually built
over the pre-existing ones by reutilising the materials
rescued from the previous demolition. This cultural
stratification, or historical superposition, is shown
in many churches of the central and upper area of Lake
Como. Not only, when Christianity was structured into
an ecclesiastic organization, there was also a superposition
of liturgical festivities by giving a new meaning to
the pagan celebrations deeply rooted into the popular
habits and traditions. As the centuries went by, the
already hegemonic Church of Rome gained an enormous
political and economical power, too. Its influence conditioned
any political decision of Kings and Emperors in a nearly
analphabetic Europe. The Church had become the only
depositary and custodian of the antique knowledge and
of the Holy Scriptures, books that were kept and transcribed
in the Scriptorium of Benedictine Monasteries.
In Tremezzina the Monastery of Acquafredda in Lenno
built in 1153, had a Scriptorium, the only
one in this area. Middle Ages was characterised by the
building of new churches and, moreover, of Monasteries.
Some of them had actually become centres of power as,
for instance, the little Isola Comacina. After having
been a military fortress for several centuries, in Middle
Ages Isola Comacina became a religious centre that grew
so powerful to dispute, protestant ante litteram,
with the Church of Rome. The many convents and monasteries
spread on Tremezzina area, together with the parish
churches of the nearby villages were under its religious,
political and economical rule. The fate of these villages
form Colonno to Griante Cadenabbia was
indissolubly bound with the historical events of the
See of Isola Comacina that, during the "Communes
times", sided with Milan against Como, which sided
with Emperor Fredric the Red-beard. It was because of
this alliance with Milan that Isola Comacina was assaulted
and completely destroyed in 1169, when the island was
set on fire not to be inhabited ever since. In Tremezzina
there are many buildings that date to Middle Ages; the
great majority of them are Romanesque churches and convents,
mainly set on the land and villages closer to the island:
Ossuccio and Lenno.
THE
WARS OF SUCCESION THE REFORM AND COUNTER REFORM
In 1300, except for the upper lake area, the Lario territory
belonged to the Dukedom of Milan under the rule of the
Sforza, followed by the Visconti, who reorganised it.
At the end of 1400, on Lombard soil, broke out endless
and bloody wars for the succession to the Dukedom of
Milan, which ended with the peace of Constance signed
on the 28th August 1529. From the Alps swarmed down
the Grisons, a Swiss people who fought the French who,
in turn, were fighting against the Hispanic Germans,
who also claimed the possession of the Dukedom of Milan.
The Lario land was turned into a battlefield; moreover
it became a pass through land for hordes of soldiers
of venture, who caused destructions, famine and plagues.
It was in this historical contest that took place an
event, although marginal, with tragic outcomes for Griante
and Tremezzo. It was bound to the figure of Giovanni
del Matto di Brenzio, born in the See of Dongo, who
at first was a soldier in the Venetian Republic Army,
then he became admiral of his own fleet, devoting himself
to piracy on Lake Como. He was politically allied with
the Grisons, who eventually gave him the command of
an army of Lansquenets and stranded Italian soldier
of Imperial faith, with the task of conquering Como
from the French. Defeated at Borgo Vico because of the
desertion of the Lansquenets, he sought shelter in his
castle at Griante where he was followed by the Como-
French army, captured and executed in 1521. But Giovanni
Del Mattos death did not bring peace along the
lake for another highwayman, Gian Giacomo De Medici,
called the Medeghino, who had already fought under Del
Matto, took his place and stormed over the lake till
1532. Later he became a well known Captain of Venture
and was acknowledged Lord of Musso and Marquis of Marignano.
During this troubled period, also a number of religious
wars were fought on this territory. As a matter of facts,
the Grisons, who had embraced the Lutheran faith, in
their attempt to impose the new religion to the natives,
set villages, churches and archives on fire and destroyed
and robbed any valuable item. In order to save the most
valuable sacred ones, moreover the statues of the Blessed
Virgin, some willing believers secretly hid them into
some difficult to reach caves on the nearby mountains
where they were left forgotten for over a century. After
the Council of Trento, failed any attempt to reconcile
with the Protestants and having sent the Grisons back
beyond the Alps, with the advent of the Counter Reform,
in the Sub Alpine region were encouraged the building
of Sacred Mounts as a barrier against the spreading
of Lutheranism. And it was during this period that on
the mountains were discovered some effigies of the Blessed
Virgin, giving way to the legends bound to the building
of the Marian Shrines in Tremezzina. In 1500, in the
reports of the pastoral visit of Feliciano Niguarda
Bishop in Como, we can read: We visited the Oratory
of the Blessed Mary of Succour on the mountain above
Ustio (Ossuccio) in the Parish of Insula (Isola Comacina);
it is one mile and a half of a difficult walk from the
church. Before, there was a capital topped with an image
of the Blessed Virgin, which is still visible, and because
of some miracles of healing from infirmity it was then
enlarged into a church. So, when it was decided
to build the Sacred Mount of Ossuccio, there was already
a church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin of Succours.
Like many other Shrines, also the one at Ossuccio was
built on the spot where there was a pre-existing chapel
dedicated to a statue of the Blessed Virgin believed
to have thaumaturgical powers, which in turn was superposed
to a place of pre-Christian cult.
THE
HISPANIC DOMINATION AND THE MODERN ERA
The establishing of the Hispanic domination on the territory
of the Dukedom of Milan also affected the along shore
villages of lake Como. Peoples way of life, the
Hispanic Squires prevarications, the Lansquenets
robberies and distructions that brought famine and plague
in the area during that particular period, are wonderfully
described in Alessandro Manzonis masterpiece The
Betroths. This novel takes place on the eastern
branch of lake Como, but it depicts the historical events
that characterised the whole area starting from the
plain at the north, which is still called The
plain of Spain. There, at the confluence of the
roads that runs southward (to Como and Milan), eastward
(to Valtellina and Spluga Pass), and westward (to Val
Mesolcina, Saint Jorio Pass and Bellinzona) the Spaniards
had a fortress built in order to oppose the many soldiers
of venture swarming down from the Alps. The ruins of
Fort Fuentes, that also gave its name to the area, are
now being restored and can be visited with guided tours.
The signature of the Pyrenees Peace put an end to the
hostilities that for centuries on end opposed French
to Spain. This put a stop to the raids of mercenary
troops that caused famine and plague wherever they passed.
The war of succession in Spaine ended the Hispanic domination
in Lombardy, too. All through 1700, there was a flourishing
of building and rebuilding of churches, palaces and
villas in Tremezzina. The historical events and wars
of the 1700 and 1800, marginally, and mainly administratively,
affected the along-shore villages of Lake Como. Their
relative quietness and the mildness of their climate
attracted many wealthy and noble families from Lodi,
Milan and Como that come here to spend summer, off the
troubles of their towns. Cesare Beccaria from Milan
had a villa built at Sala Comacina, where Alessandro
Manzoni used to spend long periods. At Lenno, Cardinal
Durini from Como bought the decayed Monastery of Balbianello
and turned it into a de lux villa. At Tremezzo, in villa
La Quiete lived Giuseppe Parini, who worked as a tutor
for Serbellonis children. Marquis Clerici from
Lodi had a country villa built at Cadenabbia, destined
to become one of Lake Como landmarks with the name of
Villa Carlotta. Count Melzi DEril from Milan had
a villa built at Bellagio to compete with Count Sommariva
from Milan, who then owned villa Clerici, for the beauty
of their gardens, decorations and works of art.
THE
AGE OF TOURISM
The age of tourism in Tremezzina started astride the
end of 1700 and the very beginning of the 1800, when
Giuseppe Gianella bought the old Inn set by the port
of Cadenabbia, which for centuries has been a referring
point for all boatmen sailing the lake with their cargoes
of goods and merchandise toward the upper lake and the
lands beyond the Alps. He turned it into a hotel for
visitors and tourists. Soon, the beauty of the place,
its particularly mild climate together with its tranquillity
made the Hotel della Cadenabbia then Hotel Belle
Vue - well known among travellers and visitors from
all over the world. To house the increasing number of
people coming here, were built some other hotels and
villas along shore. Tremezzina and the Central area
of the lake became a resort for tourists. A large colony
of British and German people settled in its villages,
but this time, their pacific invasions brought prosperity
to the native.
THE
XX CENTURY
The World Wars fought during the 20th century had as
immediate consequence the temporary suspension of tourism
and an economic recession, in Tremezzina. During the
First World Was, some trenches were dug on the mountains
along the lake, as they were considered border zone,
and the hotel were requisitioned and turned into military
headquarters and field hospitals. At the end of the
first World War, the Italian State annexed the properties
belonging to German people as booty of war, among then
there were Villa Carlotta at Tremezzo Cadenabbia and
Villa Monastero at Varenna. After nearly thirty years
of prosperity, with the advent of the Second World War
the area had to face another difficult period. Tremezzina
was the protagonist of the historical event that ended
the war, Fascism and the Nazis occupation in Italy.
On the 27 April 1947, along the road between Musso and
Dongo, a Partisan division captured Benito Mussolini
while, together with Claretta Petacci and some members
of his last Government, was attempting to flee from
Italy through one of the Alpine Passes at the north
of Lake Como. The Government members were taken to Dongo
and executed in the village square, while Mussolini
and Petacci were to be taken to the Allied Headquarter
in Como. But, as they reached Mezzegra, probably because
of the partisans different opinions on what had
to be done, it was decided to spend the night in that
village. In the hamlet of Giulino they requisitioned
Casa De Maria, where the two prisoners spent a troubled
night. On the following morning they left the house
to go to Como, but as they reached Via XXIV Maggio,
at number 14, before the gate of a villa, the Partisan
Colonel Valerio ordered the prisoners to be executed.
The corps were then taken to Milan and hung at Piazzale
Loreto. Fate wanted that that was the very first time
of Mussolini on Lake Como. In the 50s, the first
German Chancellor chose Griante Cadenabbia as his summer
residence. In the peacefulness of Villa La Collina it
was conceived the idea of a United Europe that later
became reality with the ratification of the Treaty of
Rome.
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